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Monday 30 July 2012

Eco-Fibre - Reviving Nettle

Nettles have such negative connotation in regards to our gardens and our vulnerable bare skin - but they could provide a sustainable solution for fashion designers. 
We've used nettles in cooking concoctions and in moisturising creams over the years. It might be time to dig out the weeds for our wardrobes, again. Soon enough, we might be wearing the nuisance that was, nettles, close to our skin. 
Do not fear! Nettle fabric is extracted from the phloem - the stalk of the plant, making it a fabric that's softer and more durable than cotton.


Nettles provide a sustainable alternative to cotton as their growth rate and low maintenance qualities require minimal amounts of water and no pesticides, much like its relation of the bast fibre family - hemp. Nettles also thrive in the poorest of soil (with an added benefit of feeding nutrients back into the soil it grows in) while attracting an array of wildlife to the area. 
Much like hemp - will the benefits of nettle be squandered?
The use of nettle for textiles isn't a new idea; it dates back 2,000 years, it was most popular in Victorian times. When cotton arrived in the 16th Century, nettle lost its popularity, (cotton was easier to harvest and spin, too) dwindling the amount of other fibrous resource use. Nettles made a brief comeback in the First World War when Germany suffered a cotton shortage. 
To this day, existing problems in the agricultural sector seek the need for alternative crops. Although, this time around, the concern about environmental damage caused by cotton is the driving force for alternative fibre manufacture and use.

DID YOU KNOW? The juice of nettle leaves and stem have been used over centuries to make a permanent green dye, while a yellow dye can be made by boiling the roots. 

There haven't been many nettle textile products being made and procured in recent years, although there are a fine few in this generation who are causing a revival of this useful weed. This includes Netl - a Dutch fashion label. 'Netl is a quintessentially Dutch, fashion forward label. Not only the designs are avant garde and pure: the intractability of Netl starts with the material. ... The warm, colorful knitwear is a blend of cotton and nettle.' ~ Netl, translated 'About' page 
Netl knitwear is made from a blend of 75% cotton and 25% nettle yarns - making use of our new advances in spinning technologies and cross-breeding capabilities.
Netl is a quintessentially Dutch, fashion forward label

The research staff at DeMontfort University in Leicester, UK are also pushing nettle fashions forward by eliminating the use of toxic chemicals in processing the fiber and breeding varieties of the plant that render even softer textiles. They have discovered a method of using enzymes for dissolving the lignin, a glue-like substance that makes plant stems sturdy, in order to extract the fibers to use for spinning into yarn. The university researchers have partnered up with furnishing textile producer Camira in a venture called STING: Sustainable Technologies in Nettle Growing. ~ EcoSalon

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Many new technologies are emerging to tackle the environmental issues of the fashion industry, although the current reinvention of the nettle reminds us that we can also learn lessons from the past. 

Tuesday 10 July 2012

Recycling Textiles Throughout The Globe

Since becoming a keen follower of the recycling industry and the challenges of sustainability, I've been researching the impacts and implications of global issues. 
I'm a follower of Eco Textile News for all of their Eco-textile related goodness. Ecotextile news magazine write news from across the globe concerning the textile industry and clothing supply chain.
Below I've listed some choice cuts from their recent news. 


VARGÖN, SWEDEN – A new pilot textile recycling facility in Sweden, which aims to turn used textiles into fibres good enough for spinning and re-use in clothing, has finally been given the go-ahead. It is hoped the plant can be scaled up to take textile waste from Scandinavian retailers such as H&M and IKEA for up-cycling into new clothes through the regeneration of cotton and viscose fabrics. 


BOLOGNA – Italian synthetic textile yarn supplier RadiciGroup has launched a new range of 100% post-consumer recycled polyester yarns for the sportswear and medical sectors that are available in a variety of counts, colours and lustres or as solution dyed yarn that have been sourced in Europe from bottle collection to yarn spinning.



RIO DE JANEIRO – In the wake of the recent Rio +20 UN Summit, Osklen, one of Brazil’s top fashion brands has teamed up with the Italian government, through Corrado Clini, the Italian Minister of Environment, to develop a new project that aims to develop cutting-edge, sustainable textiles and clothing.


MILAN – Green Carpet Challenge (GCC) founder Livia Firth will team up with British TV presenter, Observer journalist and author Lucy Siegle to host a special session at this year’s RITE Group conference on sustainable textiles in London on October 10th.


NEW YORK - Apparel manufacturer VDS Group has introduced a policy of 100% water treatment and reuse for its LEED Platinum certified factory Vintage Denim Studio Limited in Bangladesh.


HONG KONG – Crystal Group, one of the world’s leading garment manufacturers has received two awards for environmental excellence including its Chinese denim mill Zhong Shan Yida Apparel, which is capable of recycling 80 per cent of its treated water as the company reveals plans for zero water discharge at this factory.



Ecotextile News
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LONDON - Right here in London I'm enjoying the work of Reclaim to Wear; an upcycling haven. 
RTW utilises the fashion industry's surplus such as stock, remnants and off-cuts, recycling and reintroducing the textiles back into the market as a new, upcycled product.
Designers and retailers are welcomed to collaborate with Reclaim to Wear to create 'zero waste' collections. The waste from the textile industry is maintained with sustainable methods with Reclaim to Wear's ethos. 


Reclaim to Wear recently collaborated with Topshop, creating a debut upcycled capsule collection made entirely from discarded materials. It launched on the 15th of June.
'This is the first step towards the creation of zero waste design collections. The Topshop team's commitment to new sustainable solutions will lead to the reconsidering of consumption versus disposal versus disposal throughout the whole fashion industry supply chain.' Topshop Reclaim to Wear 

Topshop Reclaim to Wear, launched June 15th 2012

What measures are being taken where you are, to reduce textile waste?